https://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=GavinRedbrick Wiki - User contributions [en]2026-05-22T18:58:41ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.8https://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cplusplus&diff=6769Cplusplus2008-03-06T16:27:49Z<p>Gavin: remove some of the crap</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Under construction.'''<br />
<br />
''If you have any problems with this tutorial or want to give feedback, ask questions or get additional help, please e-mail coconut<at>redbrick<dot>dcu<dot>ie or, for general [[Helpdesk]] queries, helpdesk<at>redbrick<dot>dcu<dot>ie. ''<br />
<br />
'''C++''' is an object-oriented programming language, developed as a superset of the language [[C]], which means that the language is essentially C with more features, hence the name. However, it has since evolved into a separate language and compatibility with C is no longer guaranteed.<br />
<br />
It is a very popular all-purpose language which is commonly utilised for game programming, and in many respects is quite similar to [[Java]], another object-oriented language.<br />
<br />
==g++==<br />
<br />
The page [[Programming On Redbrick]] explains how to compile programs written in C++. Here we will go into more depth as to how the compiler g++ works.<br />
<br />
A compiler works by translating your programming language (in this case, C++) into opcode, which is the basic language that a processor understands. While C++ is a universal language (source code written on one architecture will generally work on another unless special libraries are used), programs must be recompiled if they are to be used on different architectures - for example, if you are compiling on murphy, which uses the UltraSPARC architecture, you will have to recompile your program if you wish to use it on carbon or deathray, which use the Intel x86 architecture, because UltraSPARC and x86 assembly languages are completely different.<br />
<br />
g++ is the free, open-source C++ compiler which is included with many distributions of Linux as part of the gcc package, the latter of which is a C compiler. Other popular C++ compilers include Borland C++ and Microsoft Visual C++, however these are proprietary. gcc (and g++) is the most widely ported and universally available compiler in the world.<br />
<br />
==Getting started==<br />
<br />
To begin programming in C++ on RedBrick, you first have to log in. Once you've done that, you can create a new folder for your C++ files by utilising the following command<br />
<br />
mkdir C++<br />
<br />
This will create a directory called "C++" in your home directory. Enter this directory by typing<br />
<br />
cd C++<br />
<br />
Now you're ready to create your first C++ program. For this tutorial, we are going to use the [[nano]] editor. Make a new C++ source file, that we will call "first", with<br />
<br />
nano first.cpp<br />
<br />
C++ source code files will generally use the .cpp extension - you may have noticed that C programs use .c<br />
<br />
nano should be open, awaiting input. The first thing you should do is import the necessary libraries to allow input/output in your program. This is the only library we will use at this point. Make the following line 1 of your program<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
'''iostream''' (or, archaically, iostream.h) is a C++ header file, which is a file containing C++ code designed to be imported by multiple programs.<br />
<br />
Now we want to create our '''main()''' function. main() is the first part of code that will be executed upon running your program. main() will typically look something like this<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
// insert some code here<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
There are a couple of things that have to be explained here.<br />
<br />
* The function begins with '''int''' - an int in C++ means integer, which is simply a type of variable - in this case a number. Having the function declaration as int main() means that the function main() will return an int at the end of its execution. main() will '''always''' return an int.<br />
<br />
* Chain brackets '''{ }''' are used to denote the code which main() contains. When you call main(), the code between these brackets will be executed.<br />
<br />
* '''//''' is used to make a comment. A comment is a line in your source code which will be completely ignored by the compiler. This is handy for explaining what your code does and you should quickly learn to use them frivilously.<br />
<br />
* '''return(0);''' is placed at the end of your main() function. The 0 is the int which is returned by the function - in this case, 0 means the program executed without any problems. Yay!!! The ; is used to mark the end of a line where a command is issued. If you omit this semicolon, the compiler will whinge at you.<br />
<br />
So, at this point your program should look like this<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
// insert some code here<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
The [[Programming On Redbrick]] page explains how to compile C++ programs. Just to recap, we'll go over it again (oh joy!) To indent your code as shown above, press TAB. (Proper indentation is essential programming practice.) Press CTRL+O to bring up the save option, enter to save and then CTRL+X to exit.<br />
<br />
g++ -o first first.cpp<br />
<br />
The -o parameter allows you to tell the compiler where you want to have the compiled program saved and what you want its name to be. In this case, it'll be compiled to the same folder as your source file, first.cpp<br />
<br />
Your program ''should'' compile. If it does, run it by entering<br />
<br />
./first<br />
<br />
Nothing will happen. That's because we haven't told the program to do anything!<br />
<br />
==Wow your ma with a basic program==<br />
<br />
Open up your source file again and delete the comment line. Now it's time to get stuck into some real code.<br />
<br />
Change your program so it now reads<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
std::cout << "This is my first real C++ program. Epic lulz!" << std::endl;<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
If you compile this, the program should execute and print this line onto the screen<br />
<br />
This is my first real C++ program. Epic lulz!<br />
<br />
Hurrah! Something useful and/or interesting!<br />
<br />
* '''cout''' is the C++ command for issuing an output. By default, this will go to the screen. Use left-facing arrow thingies (<<) to put your output into the cout command. You can link several things together by using multiple pairs of arrows as seen in the code, without having to issue cout twice.<br />
* '''endl''' moves output to the next line on the screen. It also flushes the stream... whatever that means.<br />
* '''std''' is the namespace which contains cout and endl. We could include the entire namespace in the code, but for now we don't need to since we're only using two of its functions - therefore we'll access them directly by putting std:: in front of cout and endl.<br />
* The text between the " " is called a string of characters. In C++, strings are always put between inverted commas like this.<br />
<br />
To be updated later...<br />
<br />
==Variables and operators==<br />
<br />
So, you've created your first C++ program. You must be so proud of yourself. Here's where the '''pain''' begins. We're moving on to variables and operators.<br />
<br />
A variable is a data container which you assign a value and whose value can, by default, be changed during the execution of your program. That's why it's called a variable.<br />
<br />
In C++, there are four variable types which you will use most<br />
<br />
* '''int''' as explained earlier, is a number.<br />
* '''char''' is a single ASCII character - a letter, a number or a symbol.<br />
* '''double''' is a decimal (floating point) number, for example: 5.673 or 1.0<br />
* '''string''' is just a string (array) of characters - you need to #include the string library for this to work as a data type.<br />
<br />
There are other ones which you won't need as often<br />
<br />
* '''short''' is, depending on the compiler, a number whose bit length is shorter (or sometimes) equal to an int.<br />
* '''long''' has a bit length twice that of an int.<br />
* '''float''' is a decimal (floating point) with half the precision of a double - shit, in other words. Avoid unless you're running on a system with memory measured in kilobytes and desperately need to conserve space, like the [[D6]]. God help you.<br />
<br />
To initialise a variable such as an int, simply use the line<br />
<br />
int a;<br />
<br />
This reserves memory space for an int called a. But this isn't much good, is it? We need to give it a value. If you declare the variable like above, you can later assign a value like this<br />
<br />
a = 5;<br />
<br />
Now a has the value of 5, however, this is the n00bs' way of doing it. Why not declare and assign at the same time?<br />
<br />
int a = 5;<br />
<br />
That's more like it. You'll be a RB admin in no time. Let's run through initialising other variables.<br />
<br />
int a = 5;<br />
double b = 10.463;<br />
char c = 'H';<br />
string d = "Warning: Haskell may contain traces of anti-lulz.";<br />
<br />
Hopefully you're getting the idea. Now that we're using string, we will have to start using the namespace std in our code for the sake of speed. Because of this, you will notice the absence of std:: which may make things easier for you.<br />
<br />
We can throw the above code into a program and make it output the variables to the screen<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
#include <string> // Remember to include string if you're using a string!<br />
<br />
using namespace std; // Also remember this!<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
int a = 5;<br />
double b = 10.463;<br />
char c = 'H';<br />
string d = "Warning: Haskell may contain traces of anti-lulz.";<br />
<br />
cout << a << endl << b << endl << c << endl << d << endl;<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
Note how we can print four lines, with four different variables, using one cout command by having multiple <<<br />
<br />
Also, see how string uses inverted commas " " whereas char uses two apostrophes ' ' - this is called being unnecessary complicated. But at least this isn't Haskell, so cheer up.<br />
<br />
So, say you want to add two numbers together for some reason which makes sense to you. How? Simple. There are several ways to do it.<br />
<br />
int a = 2;<br />
int b = 6;<br />
int c = a + b;<br />
<br />
The value of c is now the values of a and b added together. If you don't want to bother with a third variable, you can just put the answer into a or b by replacing the third line with<br />
<br />
a = a + b;<br />
<br />
To output c to the screen<br />
<br />
cout << c;<br />
<br />
Or, without having to use c at all<br />
<br />
cout << a + b;<br />
<br />
This adds a and b together and outputs it to the screen all in one go. Hurrah!<br />
<br />
You can also add doubles together in the same fashion.<br />
<br />
Say you have a few chars and you want to combine them together in order to form a word, and then print it to the screen<br />
<br />
char a = 'o';<br />
char b = 'm';<br />
char c = 'g';<br />
char d = 'w';<br />
char e = 'a';<br />
char f = 'f';<br />
<br />
cout << a + b + c + d + e + f;<br />
<br />
This will print "omgwaf" on the screen.<br />
<br />
Another way to do it, without using variables at all, is<br />
<br />
cout << "omgwaf";<br />
<br />
You can also waste everyone's RAMz if you want, by using a string for no justifiable reason. Say you've already declared the chars and assigned their values<br />
<br />
string rofl = a + b + c + d + e + f;<br />
<br />
cout << rofl;<br />
<br />
Remember: a string is merely an array of characters so this works with strings too. You'll learn more about arrays later.<br />
<br />
There are other basic operators in C++.<br />
<br />
* '''+''' is the addition operator. It allows numbers to be added and chars and strings to be joined together.<br />
* '''-''' is the subtraction operator. With it you can subtract numbers.<br />
* '''*''' is multiplication. Multiply numbers.<br />
* '''/''' is division. Divide numbers.<br />
<br />
Say you want C++ to do your maths homework for you because you feel Michael Clancy is going to fail you for being such a newb.<br />
<br />
int a = (5 * ((12/3) - 1)) + 25<br />
<br />
Easy as [[undone]]'s mother.<br />
<br />
This will divide 12 by 3, giving 4, then take 1 from it, giving 3, multiply that by 5, giving 15, and then add it to 25, resulting in 40, which is then assigned as the value for a. Try it yourself. Brackets are very handy for mathematical calculations in C++, just like in that yoke known as "real life".<br />
<br />
C++ can also handle negative numbers, just as you would expect a calculator to, except this time the calculator can run 32 threads simultaneously, is about one hundred times bigger, ten thousand times louder, needs several hundred watts of power to function and only the five richest kings of Europe can afford one.<br />
<br />
Perhaps that last part was slightly untrue.<br />
<br />
==if statements and advanced operators==<br />
<br />
A crucial element of any programming language is the ability to test whether something meets a defined condition. The most basic way of doing this in C++ is by using the '''if''' statement. Here's an example of how if and else work<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
using namespace std;<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
int a = 4;<br />
<br />
if(a == 5)<br />
{<br />
cout << "a is 5." << endl;<br />
}<br />
else if(a == 4)<br />
{<br />
cout << "a is 4" << endl;<br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
cout << "a does not equal 4 or 5." << endl;<br />
}<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
If is 5, the program will return "a is 5.", if it is 4, the program will return "a is 4". If it is neither 5 nor 4, the program will return "a does not equal 4 or 5."<br />
<br />
You can use an infinite number of '''else if''' statements, linking ifs together, but it is probably bad programming practice to use too many.<br />
<br />
Also note that if you only have one line of code following an if, if else or else statement (the line which will be executed when the condition is satisfied), you ''may'' omit the chain brackets for the statement.<br />
<br />
if(a < 10)<br />
cout << "a is less than 10." << endl;<br />
<br />
If a is less than 10, the program will return "a is less than 10."<br />
<br />
* '''==''' is used to see if two variables are equal. It will work for all data types except string, for which there are other functions dealt with later.<br />
* '''!=''' not equal to<br />
* '''<=''' less than or equal to<br />
* '''>=''' greater than or equal to<br />
* '''<''' less than<br />
* '''>''' greater than<br />
<br />
==Loops==<br />
<br />
Most programming languages support '''loops''', which are useful for executing a certain part of code over and over.<br />
<br />
Here is a '''while''' loop<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
using namespace std;<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
int a = 0;<br />
<br />
while(a < 100)<br />
{<br />
cout << a << endl;<br />
a++;<br />
}<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
This will print 100 lines of numbers, going from 0 to 99<br />
<br />
0<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
...<br />
<br />
The condition to make sure that a is less than 100 is checked at the start of each loop, and a is incremented by 1 at the end of each loop (denoted by '''a++'''; you can also use '''a--''' to decrement by 1). Therefore, when a reaches 99, it will be printed to screen, then incremented. The loop will then check to see if it is less than 100, which it is not, resulting in the termination of the loop.<br />
<br />
While loops are handy in games where you may want something to loop endlessly until the user makes an action (presses a key, for example). Here is a variation of the while loop, called the '''do while''' loop.<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
using namespace std;<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
int a = 0;<br />
<br />
do<br />
{<br />
cout << a << endl;<br />
a++;<br />
}<br />
while(a < 100);<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
This print the same 100 lines, 0 to 99. However, the condition for the loop is not checked until the end of the loop.<br />
<br />
If you're dealing with finite numbers of loops, you may want to consider the '''for loop'''<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
using namespace std;<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
for(int a = 0; a < 100; a++)<br />
{<br />
cout << a << endl;<br />
}<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
This produces the same result, except in a much handier format. There are three things you declare when creating a for loop: a variable, what condition must be met for the loop to continue cycling, and what happens at the end of a loop. a is the initialised variable, the loop will continue until it reaches 100 and at the end of each loop, a is incremented by 1. Simple.<br />
<br />
To end a loop immediately, issue the following command in your code<br />
<br />
break;<br />
<br />
For example, if you want the loop to end early when a certain condition is met, just use an if statement inside the loop and have the loop break if this condition is met.<br />
<br />
==Executing system commands in C++==<br />
<br />
It is possible to execute system commands from within your C++ program. If your program is command-line only, you can execute simple commands such as those to clear the screen, etc.<br />
<br />
If you're using Linux, the code is<br />
<br />
system("clear");<br />
<br />
You can also do this if you're running Windows (although why would you want to?) The DOS clear command is "cls"<br />
<br />
system("cls");<br />
<br />
...like so!<br />
<br />
However, it is recommended that you '''not''' use system commands in your code for something as trivial as clearing the screen. It's a resource hog and leaves a gaping security hole in your C++ program. There is a better way to do this in C++, however it requires advanced knowledge of the language and is available below under ''Advanced''.<br />
<br />
==Functions: The Basics==<br />
<br />
It's now time to move on to '''functions'''. A function is basically the same thing as a method in Java: it is a sequence of commands which can be called upon at any time, passed parameters and set to return a value.<br />
<br />
main() is a function - the default function for a C++ program. But what if you have some code that you don't want to put into main? Use another function.<br />
<br />
Let's say we want to add two numbers together and print out the result. The code could look something like this:<br />
<br />
#include <iostream><br />
<br />
using namespace std;<br />
<br />
int add(int a, int b)<br />
{<br />
return a + b;<br />
}<br />
<br />
int main()<br />
{<br />
int a = 2;<br />
int b = 5;<br />
<br />
cout << add(a,b) << endl;<br />
<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
This program adds 2 and 5 together to get 7, and displays this answer on-screen.<br />
<br />
a and b are passed as ''parameters'' to the add function - they are then immediately added together and the answer is returned. Experiment with this code to do different things.<br />
<br />
==More advanced C++==<br />
<br />
I'll get around to this someday. I'm still learning too you know!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Helpdesk]]</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=6297Cycling2008-02-14T14:09:14Z<p>Gavin: More waffle about bike lights</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Articles]]<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
An alternative to a bell is an air horn. These could be of more use than a bell as they are so loud. To be used only in an emergency though. <br />
<br />
===Lights & Reflectors===<br />
<br />
There are several requirements under law concerning lights & reflectors. <br />
<br />
Legal requirements are:<br />
* You are required at all times to have a rear reflector<br />
* From "''half an hour after sunset and ending half an hour before sunrise on the following morning''" you must have a front and rear lamp. Flashing lights are actually not legal. http://www.citizensinformation.ie/categories/travel-and-recreation/vehicle-standards/lighting_of_bicycles_in_ireland<br />
<br />
Broadly speaking, there are two types of bicycle lights. Those that allow you to see and those that allow you to be seen. For commuting through the city center, ones that allow you to be seen are usually enough. These are typically LED lights, running off AA or AAA batteries, usually with a flashing option. The other type of lights are for use on dark roads with no street lighting. These type of lights can be extremely expensive, come with their own powerpack. They are usually halogen, but increasingly more powerful LEDS are also being used. <br />
<br />
The best approach is to have a set of lights on the bike which are non-flashing. Then, on your person/bag, put smaller flashing lights. These can help if you come off your bike at night. Non-flashing lights make it easier for drivers to gauge your speed/distance. <br />
<br />
The best low range rear bicycle light is the Planet Bike Super Flash. http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3034.html<br />
<br />
There are a range of decent front lights. The one I recommend for serious visibility on a budget is a Fenix L2D. http://fenix-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=195 This is actually a handheld torch, but with twofish lockblocks https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_66&products_id=273 can be attached to a bicycle. This torch allows you to see on pitch black roads and be seen going through the city center. Get rechargable AA batteries, at least 2700mah.<br />
<br />
There are alternative ones, as bright, available at dealextreme. Anything that uses a Cree LED is going to be bright. <br />
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7938 I haven't used these, so don't know how good they are. Substantially cheaper than the Fenix though. <br />
<br />
For flashing lights, I found these lights bought them off ebay. It's a LED Band. It's not one of the green reflective strips with 4 dim red leds in it. They are quite bright, glowing reasonably well for the whole length of the band.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Twinkle_amber_on.JPG]]<br />
<br />
A number of people seem to make them, Nite-Ize, Polybrite and a korean crowd do knocks off called Twinkler.<br />
<br />
I bought the Twinkler version off ebay from here<br />
http://stores.ebay.com/CycleJerseys-UK<br />
<br />
The delivery price ain't fantastic, but at least it's quick. I bought an Amber one and a white one. The picture on the website is misleading for the white one though, it's actually multicoloured, Red, Green, Blue lights. Looks a bit odd, but highly visible.<br />
<br />
I put the amber one on my ankle, it's easily spotted when cycling along. The other one goes on my arm. I found an american place on ebay selling the Nite-Ize ones a bit cheaper<br />
<br />
http://stores.ebay.com/Lights-and-Holsters-Plus<br />
<br />
Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons up in Santry, a builders store with cheaper jackets. <br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
There is a very good youtube video showing that in fact the SoldSecure ratings are not as accurate as they claim to be. <br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC3hFr8p2ck The second lock shown is the one mentioned above, that I bought from the Great Outdoors. <br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
Trucks and HGVs are the primary killer of cyclists. The classic situation seems to be where a cyclist goes up the inside of a truck turning left. The driver can't see the cyclist and the cyclist is crushed. This site, http://www.movingtargetzine.com/forum/discussion/598/hgv-blind-spots-from-nozzer/, has an excellent description of blind spots and how to cycle around/near trucks.<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance. Yahoo Maps now has updated maps of dublin, and it's route planner can do a similar service.<br />
<br />
If you're into leisure or training in dublin, this guy has a great collection of routes in and around Dublin on his [[http://www.routeslip.com/user/dickobrien RouteSlip page]]. There is also the more general page at [[http://www.routeslip.com/discover/Ireland/Dublin RouteSlip Dublin]]<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the [http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410 Cycling] forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com - Northern Ireland, free delivery , decent enough. <br />
<br />
http://www.evanscycles.com - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie - Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.cycleways.com - Ireland<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
http://www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
<br />
===Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - Plenty of good advice on this site. Ignore the dodgy design and scary photos. <br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.<br />
<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org <br />
<br />
http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.madmtb.com - Mountain Biking Association of Dublin, based in Rathfarnham</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=6273Cycling2008-01-23T11:38:00Z<p>Gavin: /* Road Positioning */ added hgv dangers</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
[[Category:Articles]]<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
There is a very good youtube video showing that in fact the SoldSecure ratings are not as accurate as they claim to be. <br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC3hFr8p2ck The second lock shown is the one mentioned above, that I bought from the Great Outdoors. <br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
Trucks and HGVs are the primary killer of cyclists. The classic situation seems to be where a cyclist goes up the inside of a truck turning left. The driver can't see the cyclist and the cyclist is crushed. This site, http://www.movingtargetzine.com/forum/discussion/598/hgv-blind-spots-from-nozzer/, has an excellent description of blind spots and how to cycle around/near trucks.<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance. Yahoo Maps now has updated maps of dublin, and it's route planner can do a similar service.<br />
<br />
If you're into leisure or training in dublin, this guy has a great collection of routes in and around Dublin on his [[http://www.routeslip.com/user/dickobrien RouteSlip page]]. There is also the more general page at [[http://www.routeslip.com/discover/Ireland/Dublin RouteSlip Dublin]]<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the [http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410 Cycling] forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com - Northern Ireland, free delivery , decent enough. <br />
<br />
http://www.evanscycles.com - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie - Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.cycleways.com - Ireland<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
http://www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
<br />
===Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - Plenty of good advice on this site. Ignore the dodgy design and scary photos. <br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.<br />
<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org <br />
<br />
http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.madmtb.com - Mountain Biking Association of Dublin, based in Rathfarnham</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=6259Cycling2007-11-08T13:52:56Z<p>Gavin: Added general routeslip link</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
[[Category:Articles]]<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
There is a very good youtube video showing that in fact the SoldSecure ratings are not as accurate as they claim to be. <br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC3hFr8p2ck The second lock shown is the one mentioned above, that I bought from the Great Outdoors. <br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance. Yahoo Maps now has updated maps of dublin, and it's route planner can do a similar service.<br />
<br />
If you're into leisure or training in dublin, this guy has a great collection of routes in and around Dublin on his [[http://www.routeslip.com/user/dickobrien RouteSlip page]]. There is also the more general page at [[http://www.routeslip.com/discover/Ireland/Dublin RouteSlip Dublin]]<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the [http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410 Cycling] forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com - Northern Ireland, free delivery , decent enough. <br />
<br />
http://www.evanscycles.com - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie - Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.cycleways.com - Ireland<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
http://www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
<br />
===Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - Plenty of good advice on this site. Ignore the dodgy design and scary photos. <br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.<br />
<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org <br />
<br />
http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.madmtb.com - Mountain Biking Association of Dublin, based in Rathfarnham</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=5473Cycling2006-12-20T18:13:28Z<p>Gavin: added link to youtube chain cutting video</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
There is a very good youtube video showing that in fact the SoldSecure ratings are not as accurate as they claim to be. <br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC3hFr8p2ck The second lock shown is the one mentioned above, that I bought from the Great Outdoors. <br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the [http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410 Cycling] forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com - Northern Ireland, free delivery , decent enough. <br />
<br />
http://www.evanscycles.com - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie - Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.cycleways.com - Ireland<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
http://www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
<br />
===Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - Plenty of good advice on this site. Ignore the dodgy design and scary photos. <br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.<br />
<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org <br />
<br />
http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.madmtb.com - Mountain Biking Association of Dublin, based in Rathfarnham</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Installing_Wordpress_on_Redbrick&diff=8104Talk:Installing Wordpress on Redbrick2006-11-03T12:37:38Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>list-manipulation.php --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 12:37, 3 Nov 2006 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Appears to be another file that needs to have #! added to it. Is there no way of checking to see if the #! has already been defined.. Like in C, the ability to check for #defines. <br />
<br />
Willr ead up on it. --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 12:37, 3 Nov 2006 (UTC)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4811Cycling2006-10-05T16:57:14Z<p>Gavin: /* Links */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the [http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410 Cycling] forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com - Northern Ireland, free delivery , decent enough. <br />
<br />
http://www.evanscycles.com - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie - Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.cycleways.com - Ireland<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
http://www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
<br />
===Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - Plenty of good advice on this site. Ignore the dodgy design and scary photos. <br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.<br />
<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org <br />
<br />
http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.madmtb.com - Mountain Biking Association of Dublin, based in Rathfarnham</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4599Cycling2006-10-05T16:49:00Z<p>Gavin: /* Links */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the [http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=410 Cycling] forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com - Northern Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.probikekit.com - Dunno<br />
<br />
http://www.wiggle.co.uk - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.evanscycles.com - UK<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclesuperstore.ie - Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.cycleways.com - Ireland<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
http://www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
<br />
http://www.pezcyclingnews.com - American Slant - but good colour pieces<br />
<br />
===Bike Manufacturer & Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all your MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
http://www.sheldonbrown.com<br />
<br />
===Races & Clubs & Associations===<br />
http://www.fbdinsuranceras.com/ Rás<br />
<br />
http://www.cyclingulster.com/ - cycling ulster<br />
<br />
http://www.juniortour.org/ - junior tour of Ireland<br />
<br />
http://www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland, forums here as well.<br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org <br />
<br />
http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.eirbyte.com/gcc/ - Galway Cycling Campaign<br />
<br />
http://www.ecf.com - European Cyclists' Federation<br />
<br />
http://www.velo-city2005.com/ - Velo-City 2005 Dublin<br />
<br />
http://www.22september.org/ - Car Free Day</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4598Cycling2006-10-05T16:44:48Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
===Insurance===<br />
<br />
There are no places that I am aware of where one can insure a bicycle on its own; most people put the bike on their house insurance. The house cover should go up to bikes worth 500euro, beyond that you might need to add the bike to the policy and pay more. <br />
<br />
If you are renting, apparantly a crowd called http://www.123.ie will insure the house contents and your bicycle. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
The following set of links have been blatantly stolen from the Cycling forum on http://www.boards.ie<br />
<br />
===Shops===<br />
www.chainreactioncycles.com<br />
www.probikekit.com<br />
www.wiggle.co.uk<br />
www.evanscycles.com<br />
www.cyclesuperstore.ie<br />
www.cycleways.com<br />
<br />
===News & General===<br />
www.irishcycling.com -Irish news<br />
www.cyclingnews.com - World News<br />
www.pezcyclingnews.com - American Slant - but good colour pieces<br />
<br />
===Bike Manufacturer & Bike Reviews===<br />
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/ - all you MTB products & bikes reviewed<br />
<br />
===D.I.Y Repair & Maintenance Tips===<br />
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml<br />
http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/<br />
<br />
===Races & Clubs & Associations===<br />
http://www.fbdinsuranceras.com/ Rás<br />
http://www.cyclingulster.com/ - cycling ulster<br />
http://www.juniortour.org/ - junior tour of Ireland<br />
www.MTBIreland.com - MTB Ireland<br />
<br />
===Groups & Activists===<br />
http://www.dublincycling.org http://home.connect.ie/dcc/ - Dublin Cycling Campaign<br />
http://www.eirbyte.com/gcc/ - Galway Cycling Campaign<br />
http://www.ecf.com - European Cyclists' Federation<br />
http://www.velo-city2005.com/ - Velo-City 2005 Dublin<br />
http://www.22september.org/ - Car Free Day</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4597Cycling2006-10-03T15:51:59Z<p>Gavin: /* Keeping your bicycle */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
There are standards for locks, one of which is the SoldSecure label.<br />
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm<br />
<br />
Apparently the more expensive Kryptonite locks can be bought on ebay, and are better value than from cycling shops. <br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4592Cycling2006-10-03T12:17:44Z<p>Gavin: /* Buying a bike */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are http://www.chainreactioncycles.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4591Cycling2006-10-02T12:39:26Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
[[Image:locked_bike.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A locked bicycle. Chain around mainframe, Ulock, with both wheels, going through rear triangle onto immovable object. Saddle removed.]]<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=File:Locked_bike.jpg&diff=8090File:Locked bike.jpg2006-10-02T12:35:09Z<p>Gavin: A locked bicycle</p>
<hr />
<div>A locked bicycle</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Places_to_Eat&diff=8016Talk:Places to Eat2006-09-27T14:43:46Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Would http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~doc/reviews/redbrick.food/ be better place for recommendations for places to eat? --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 17:23, 12 May 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
It would be nifty if this page could be a google map and people mark the locations of restaurants.. Don't know how we'd do that though --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 13:34, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
:http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Google_Maps_Extension This looks good. --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 13:40, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
:: Thats a great idea! However we haven't upgrade the wiki to a version that can use that extension. We're still in 1.4 land and we need to be at least 1.5 to use it. I don't know when that's going to happen. --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 14:18, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
::: Ah well fair enough ! --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 15:43, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Places_to_Eat&diff=4560Talk:Places to Eat2006-09-27T12:40:14Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Would http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~doc/reviews/redbrick.food/ be better place for recommendations for places to eat? --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 17:23, 12 May 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
It would be nifty if this page could be a google map and people mark the locations of restaurants.. Don't know how we'd do that though --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 13:34, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
:http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Google_Maps_Extension This looks good. --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 13:40, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Places_to_Eat&diff=4559Talk:Places to Eat2006-09-27T12:34:14Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Would http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~doc/reviews/redbrick.food/ be better place for recommendations for places to eat? --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 17:23, 12 May 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
It would be nifty if this page could be a google map and people mark the locations of restaurants.. Don't know how we'd do that though --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 13:34, 27 Sep 2006 (IST)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4567Cycling2006-09-27T12:02:35Z<p>Gavin: /* Routes */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=User:Gavin&diff=7969User:Gavin2006-09-26T18:18:38Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Gavin.<br />
Nag VI.<br />
Nag IV.<br />
Nivag.<br />
Vagin.<br />
<br />
[[Image:gavin.jpg]]</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=File:Gavin.jpg&diff=8087File:Gavin.jpg2006-09-26T18:17:42Z<p>Gavin: Gavin. AAAIIEEEeeeee</p>
<hr />
<div>Gavin. AAAIIEEEeeeee</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4557Cycling2006-09-26T18:10:53Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4555Cycling2006-09-26T18:09:32Z<p>Gavin: /* Accessories */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Pump and spare tubes===<br />
You will get a puncture at some point. With a bit of practice, fixing a puncture can be done fairly quickly. You will need bicycle levers (these are much more useful than forks or spoons) a spare tube and a pump. Rather than take the tube from the bike, fix it with a puncture repair kit, wait for the glue to dry and put it back in, the smarter bet is to just have a spare tube you can swap in. You can repair the burst one at home. This guy has a detailed description on how to handle punctures<br />
<br />
http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html<br />
<br />
An advantage of thinner tyres is that you can pump them up to a very high pressure, which reduces the likelihood of a puncture. There are also tyres with puncture prevention, these have kevlar lining on the side. Any decent bicycle shop will have them.<br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4554Cycling2006-09-26T18:01:25Z<p>Gavin: /* Routes */</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===DCU into the City Center (O'Connell Street)===<br />
<br />
*Leave via the Ballymun Road entrance, and go down the Ballymun Road. <br />
*At the junction of Griffith Avenue and Ballymun road, go straight on. If the traffic is stopped at this point, move into the righthand lane, out of the cycle lane, otherwise when the lights change you will get stuck on the inside of car or buses turning left.<br />
*Go straight on, down Mobhi Hill, and move back into the cycle lane, keep an eye on the left behind you, cars don't turn to the left sometimes and can surprise you. <br />
*Go past HomeFarm road and down to the bottom of Mobhi Hill. At the bottom turn left onto Botanic Ave.<br />
*Go all the way up Botanic road to the junction with upper Drumcondra road, staying in the middle in most places, as there is not enough room for cars to overtake, if there are oncoming cars.<br />
*Get to the top of the queue, if the traffic lights are red. If you saw the lights turn red, then cross the road onto the path at Fagans and press for the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road when the green man arrives. This way you can get ahead of all the cars<br />
*When on Drumcondra road, go to the left onto a slip road at the public toilets, this leads you onto a shared cycle path/footpath facility. Go to the end of this path, right up to the junction and back onto the main road.<br />
* Stay in the bus lane and zoom along this road, making sure to move out occasionally when the road turns to the left, to ensure you don't get squashed.<br />
*Turn left onto Parnell Square, go straight on and you are on O' Connell St.<br />
*Stop somewhere for icecream after securely locking your bicycle. <br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459587<br />
<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4553Cycling2006-09-26T17:16:31Z<p>Gavin: updated pedometer</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=459481<br />
<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Cycling&diff=8079Talk:Cycling2006-09-26T17:10:59Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Perhaps the article needs to be renamed since the is alot more information here than just about bike locks. Discussion page, so discuss.<br />
<br />
: Grand yeah, didn't know how to do it, as mentioned on the newsgroups - Gav<br />
<br />
:: oh. Got it.- Gav<br />
<br />
::: It might be working adding a section to [[Help:Contents]] about how you did it. --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 14:02, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
:::: Done --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 14:14, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
::::: Cool! Wikis rock. BTW Good article. --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 16:43, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
<br />
For adding routes, it's handy to go to the google maps pedometer link and map out your route, then click on the save route.<br />
It will give you a permanent URL you can copy 'n paste. --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 18:10, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4551Cycling2006-09-26T17:03:46Z<p>Gavin: Wheelies 4eva</p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
[[Image:wheelie.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Wheelie, performed by a daredevil cyclist with nothing to lose]]<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Wheelies===<br />
Wheelies are extremely cool and must be performed in front of lots of people for the best effect. To achieve wheelie perfection, one must practise on a green area. Concrete areas can result in broken arses. To capture your wheelie fame for all to behold, ensure that you have a friend along with some sort of camera shooting skills. Perform wheelie, record result and bask in adulation. This may in fact not be a good cycle practise.<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=458957<br />
<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=File:Wheelie.jpg&diff=8086File:Wheelie.jpg2006-09-26T16:57:17Z<p>Gavin: Extreme cooler acting in a radically cool manner. </p>
<hr />
<div>Extreme cooler acting in a radically cool manner.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4549Cycling2006-09-26T16:44:45Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
[[Image:rockhopper.jpg|right|thumb|320px|A Bicycle]]<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=458957<br />
<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.<br />
<br />
===Rathfarnham to City Centre===<br />
This way avoids alot of traffic lights and also alot of the heavy traffic on the canal. Sorry for the lack of roadnames, I'll update as I get to know more of them. From Rathfarnham, cycle past the river and up into Terenure. In Terenure take the right hand turn to go towards Rathgar (this is officially a No Right Turn but I've never had any trouble doing it). At Rathgar, take the road to the right of the Church. Keep cycling straight until you reach the first set of traffic lights and take the slip road to the left. Cycle on this road until you reach the shops. About halfway along the shops, there's a right hand turn. Go down this road and at the end of this road there should be a Church. Go around the Church and straight on until you reach the traffic lights. At the lights turn left onto Palmerston Road and keep straight until you reach the next lights. At these lights, turn right and this will bring you into Ranelagh. In Ranelagh, turn left at the traffic lights and head out of Ranelagh. Shortly after Ranelagh there's a right turn onto Northbrook Road, go down this road and this will take you onto Dartmouth Square. Go around this and this will bring you onto Leeson St Upper. Cycle down Lesson St and into the City Centre.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=File:Rockhopper.jpg&diff=8085File:Rockhopper.jpg2006-09-26T16:38:09Z<p>Gavin: A Bicycle. A Specialized Rockhopper 2004.</p>
<hr />
<div>A Bicycle. A Specialized Rockhopper 2004.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Places_to_Eat&diff=4542Places to Eat2006-09-26T13:21:00Z<p>Gavin: /* Stephen's Green */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Stephen's Green ==<br />
<br />
Wagamamas (recommendations: yaki soba, chicken katsu curry, fruit juice. Green tea is free!)<br />
<br />
Steps of Rome, Chatham St. (off Grafton st!) - Small super, cheap, italian place. Also do pizza slices to take away. <br />
<br />
O'Reillys on Harcourt St. - Does a good carvery.<br />
<br />
Nostromo on Leeson St. - main course, desert, tea/coffee for 12.95.<br />
<br />
Govinda's, Aungier St. (veggie place, but substantial, mild spicy, yummy. Get a "mix plate", bit of everything.)<br />
<br />
Metro Cafe, Stephen's St.<br />
<br />
Busyfeet, Stephen's St. (Cafe. recommendation: that sambo with brie & rye bread)<br />
<br />
Cafe Sufi (Cafe, good food although expensive. Great chocolate cake, super chicken panini)<br />
<br />
Bia Bar (recommendation: club combo)<br />
<br />
Dandelion Cafe, Stephen's Green (recommendation: chicken wings)<br />
<br />
Botticellis, Temple Bar (Small cafe / Ice cream place. Ice creams & Tiramisu are -great- there)<br />
<br />
MiMo Cafe in the PowersCourt Townhouse. Nice for lunch.<br />
<br />
Cafe Bar Deli, Grafton St, Georges St, Ranelagh. Cheap enough food of decent quality. Can fill up very quickly here.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=4563Main Page2006-09-26T13:17:04Z<p>Gavin: /* Articles */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Redbrick Feeds}}<br />
{{Blur}}<br />
This is the Redbrick Wiki Web, for all things Redbrick. The idea behind this site is that you as a redbrick member maintain it. If there is something you'd like to see here, you add it. If you find something wrong, you correct it. It couldn't be easier, you can log in with your Redbrick username and password to edit and add pages. <br />
<br />
==Help==<br />
<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Help Section Contents]]<br />
* [[Help:What is a wiki|What is a Wiki?]]<br />
* [http://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/mw/Help:Contents#I_can.27t_login.21 Having problems logging in?]<br />
<br />
==How-Tos==<br />
* [[Web chat]] : Talk on redbrick via your web browser.<br />
* [[Unsubscribing]] : You're not on redbrick, but still get those pesky emails!<br />
* [[Bike Locks]]: You've bought a bike - now to secure it. How to pick a good lock. <br />
* [[DCU Proxy And Scripts]]: Getting Python scripts to use the right proxy. <br />
* [[End of the MovableType Saga]]: A solution to the MovableType saga on Redbrick <br />
* [[Espresso Machines]]: A guide for the coffee-addicts who have far too much money. <br />
* [[Installing Gallery On Redbrick]]: How to install Gallery on Redbrick. <br />
* [[Installing Wordpress on Redbrick]]: How to install Wordpress on Redbrick. <br />
* [[Instant Messaging]]: A guide to enabling instant messaging (i.e. not hey but other messaging services such as MSN) on Redbrick <br />
* [[MovableType To Wordpress]]: An article on how to migrate from a MovableType blog to a Wordpress blog on your Redbrick website. <br />
* [[PC Disposal]]: How/where to dispose &amp; recycle your old PC junk!<br />
* [[PubCookie on Redbrick]]: How to make a webservice on Redbrick only avaliable to other Redbrick users. <br />
* [[Redbrick Radio Podcasts]]: How to make a podcast for Redbrick Radio. <br />
* [[System Administration Guide]]: General guide &amp; advice. <br />
* [[Why Cant I Get Emails From Hotmail On Redbrick]] <br />
* [[Your Webpage Stats]]: How to get and analysis statistics on your redbrick webpage. <br />
* [[Contracting]]: The basics of working as a Contractor.<br />
* [[Mass Renaming Files]]: How to rename a bunch of files all in one go<br />
* [[How-To:Port Forwarding| Port Forwarding]]: Tunnelling traffic through [[RedBrick]]<br />
* [[K750i Upgrade]]: Flash upgrading your K750i to a w800i. Warning ! Voids Warranty<br />
* [[Digital SLR Cameras]]: Buying a Digital SLR camera?<br />
<br />
==Articles==<br />
<br />
* [[Academic Research]]: Info on Postgraduate study/Academic research <br />
* [[In Jokes]]: A guide to the numerous in-jokes of the Redbrick boards. <br />
* [[Jobs]]: Information on where to look for jobs, how to make a nice CV, how to do well at interviews.<br />
* [[Coders on Redbrick]]: A list of coders on redbrick and what langauges they use. <br />
* [[OSs used by Redbrickers]]: A list of Operating Systems used by redbrick users. <br />
* [[Software on Redbrick]]: A list of software for and by Redbrick Users. <br />
* [[Top Ten Redbrick Arguments]]: Recurring debates we've had many times on the boards. <br />
* [[Why Did You Choose Your Username]] <br />
* [[Mindless Coding Music]]: Non-intrusive music, might help with concentration while programming. Music nazis will forever mock you. :( <br />
* [[Redbrick Companies]]: Companies that Redbrick people are involved in or started.<br />
* [[Learning CSS Layout]]: Info on learning to use CSS to layout your webpage.<br />
* [[IPod Debate]]: The IPod debate is often regurgitated on the boards. This article is a summary of the different points of views.<br />
* [[Places to Eat]]: A list of places to eat in various areas, as recommended by brickies.<br />
* [[Cycling]]: Cycling around Redbrick and Dublin.<br />
<br />
==Projects==<br />
<br />
* [[Distributed Computing]]: Join the Redbrick team for different worldwide Distributed Computing projects! <br />
* [[Cluster Computing]]: Beowulf Linux Cluster @ School of Computing, DCU (2001). <br />
* [http://c-hey.redbrick.dcu.ie C-Hey]: Command line instant messaging. <br />
* [[IBMS390|IBM S/390]]: Proposed projects on an IBM S/390 mainframe @ School of Computing, DCU (2001). <br />
* [[Nation States]]: ... is a free online political simulation game. A few Redbrick Users are playing. Why not join them? <br />
* [[Newsgroup Reorganisation]]: A working document detailing the proposed changes to the redbrick and intersocs newsgroup structure. <br />
* [[Open Labs]]: Hosted lab sessions for school children (DCU Access Office, DCU Community Office). <br />
* [[Redbrick Wishlist]]: A list of projects Redbrick sorely needs (code them to get paid money!).<br />
* [[Clubs and Socs Alumni]]: A project aiming to keep DCU alumni involved<br />
* [[Website To-Do List]]: Bugs and suggestions for the new Redbrick website design<br />
* [[Redbrick Hardware]]: A list of Redbrick Hardware and their Specs<br />
<br />
==Events &amp; History==<br />
<br />
* [[A Brief History]]: A loose overview history<br />
* [[Bertie Ahern Visit]]: When Bertie visited Redbrick. <br />
* [[Best Society]]: Best DCU Society, Best National Society (2000/2001) <br />
* [[Justin's Article]]: Justin Moran (cain)'s article in An Tarbh<br />
* [[Redbrick Anniversary]]: To discuss and organise our 10-year anniversary! (event/book) <br />
* [[Redbrick Logo]]: The history of Redbrick logos! <br />
* [[SemNet]]: A once-off tech seminar day (2003). <br />
* [[Tech Week]]: A week long series of tech events at DCU. <br />
* [[Timeline]]: Redbrick Timeline. <br />
* [[WaveHunt]]: Wireless network tracking competition in Dublin.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~shadow/recent.cgi A reloadable map of who is heying who on Redbrick, right now!]: Written by Phaxx and Shadow. <br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~shadow/ Login times for all Redbrick users]: Written by Shadow. <br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~thayl/mt_saga.html MovableType saga on Redbrick]: Thayl has a summary of the problems with using [http://www.movabletype.org/ Movabletype] on Redbrick.<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~magluby/pics/ Pictures of Redbrick users]: Mugshots of many Redbrick users. Powered by magluby. <br />
* [https://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~link/news/ Read the boards]: Link has thrown up some software to allow Redbrick users to read the boards from the web. Uses your slrn settings. <br />
* [http://www.audioscrobbler.com/group/redbrick Redbrick Audioscrobbler Group]: See other members' taste in music on audioscrobbler<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~wishkah/code.html Redbrick Code]: The Redbrick Code, by wishkah<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/about/admins/diskhog/ Redbrick Diskhogs]: Whos hogging all the disk space on Redbrick?<br />
* [http://planet.redbrick.dcu.ie Redbrick Planet]: A site that brings together numerous blog from Redbrick users. Check out the [[Planet Redbrick FAQ]] for more.<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~doc/reviews/ Reviews of books, movies and music by Redbrick users]: Powered by DoC<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~yosarian/mud/ Stuff on Redbrick Muds]: Yosarian has some useful FAQs, stats and other stuff on using MUD on Redbrick.<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~thayl/headphones.html Redbrick Headphones FAQ]: Thayl collected responses from what Redbrick people think are decent headphones.<br />
<br />
==Special Pages==<br />
<br />
* [[Special:Specialpages|List of all Special Pages]]<br />
* [[Special:Popularpages|Popular Pages]]<br />
* [[Special:Statistics|Site Statistics]]: They do seem to be a little 'broken' though.<br />
* [[Special:Newimages|Uploads in thumbnail format]]<br />
* [[Special:Allpages|All pages on this wiki]]<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Help Section Contents]]</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=4539Main Page2006-09-26T13:16:33Z<p>Gavin: /* Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Redbrick Feeds}}<br />
{{Blur}}<br />
This is the Redbrick Wiki Web, for all things Redbrick. The idea behind this site is that you as a redbrick member maintain it. If there is something you'd like to see here, you add it. If you find something wrong, you correct it. It couldn't be easier, you can log in with your Redbrick username and password to edit and add pages. <br />
<br />
==Help==<br />
<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Help Section Contents]]<br />
* [[Help:What is a wiki|What is a Wiki?]]<br />
* [http://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/mw/Help:Contents#I_can.27t_login.21 Having problems logging in?]<br />
<br />
==How-Tos==<br />
* [[Web chat]] : Talk on redbrick via your web browser.<br />
* [[Unsubscribing]] : You're not on redbrick, but still get those pesky emails!<br />
* [[Bike Locks]]: You've bought a bike - now to secure it. How to pick a good lock. <br />
* [[DCU Proxy And Scripts]]: Getting Python scripts to use the right proxy. <br />
* [[End of the MovableType Saga]]: A solution to the MovableType saga on Redbrick <br />
* [[Espresso Machines]]: A guide for the coffee-addicts who have far too much money. <br />
* [[Installing Gallery On Redbrick]]: How to install Gallery on Redbrick. <br />
* [[Installing Wordpress on Redbrick]]: How to install Wordpress on Redbrick. <br />
* [[Instant Messaging]]: A guide to enabling instant messaging (i.e. not hey but other messaging services such as MSN) on Redbrick <br />
* [[MovableType To Wordpress]]: An article on how to migrate from a MovableType blog to a Wordpress blog on your Redbrick website. <br />
* [[PC Disposal]]: How/where to dispose &amp; recycle your old PC junk!<br />
* [[PubCookie on Redbrick]]: How to make a webservice on Redbrick only avaliable to other Redbrick users. <br />
* [[Redbrick Radio Podcasts]]: How to make a podcast for Redbrick Radio. <br />
* [[System Administration Guide]]: General guide &amp; advice. <br />
* [[Why Cant I Get Emails From Hotmail On Redbrick]] <br />
* [[Your Webpage Stats]]: How to get and analysis statistics on your redbrick webpage. <br />
* [[Contracting]]: The basics of working as a Contractor.<br />
* [[Mass Renaming Files]]: How to rename a bunch of files all in one go<br />
* [[How-To:Port Forwarding| Port Forwarding]]: Tunnelling traffic through [[RedBrick]]<br />
* [[K750i Upgrade]]: Flash upgrading your K750i to a w800i. Warning ! Voids Warranty<br />
* [[Digital SLR Cameras]]: Buying a Digital SLR camera?<br />
<br />
==Articles==<br />
<br />
* [[Academic Research]]: Info on Postgraduate study/Academic research <br />
* [[In Jokes]]: A guide to the numerous in-jokes of the Redbrick boards. <br />
* [[Jobs]]: Information on where to look for jobs, how to make a nice CV, how to do well at interviews.<br />
* [[Coders on Redbrick]]: A list of coders on redbrick and what langauges they use. <br />
* [[OSs used by Redbrickers]]: A list of Operating Systems used by redbrick users. <br />
* [[Software on Redbrick]]: A list of software for and by Redbrick Users. <br />
* [[Top Ten Redbrick Arguments]]: Recurring debates we've had many times on the boards. <br />
* [[Why Did You Choose Your Username]] <br />
* [[Mindless Coding Music]]: Non-intrusive music, might help with concentration while programming. Music nazis will forever mock you. :( <br />
* [[Redbrick Companies]]: Companies that Redbrick people are involved in or started.<br />
* [[Learning CSS Layout]]: Info on learning to use CSS to layout your webpage.<br />
* [[IPod Debate]]: The IPod debate is often regurgitated on the boards. This article is a summary of the different points of views.<br />
* [[Places to Eat]]: A list of places to eat in various areas, as recommended by brickies.<br />
<br />
==Projects==<br />
<br />
* [[Distributed Computing]]: Join the Redbrick team for different worldwide Distributed Computing projects! <br />
* [[Cluster Computing]]: Beowulf Linux Cluster @ School of Computing, DCU (2001). <br />
* [http://c-hey.redbrick.dcu.ie C-Hey]: Command line instant messaging. <br />
* [[IBMS390|IBM S/390]]: Proposed projects on an IBM S/390 mainframe @ School of Computing, DCU (2001). <br />
* [[Nation States]]: ... is a free online political simulation game. A few Redbrick Users are playing. Why not join them? <br />
* [[Newsgroup Reorganisation]]: A working document detailing the proposed changes to the redbrick and intersocs newsgroup structure. <br />
* [[Open Labs]]: Hosted lab sessions for school children (DCU Access Office, DCU Community Office). <br />
* [[Redbrick Wishlist]]: A list of projects Redbrick sorely needs (code them to get paid money!).<br />
* [[Clubs and Socs Alumni]]: A project aiming to keep DCU alumni involved<br />
* [[Website To-Do List]]: Bugs and suggestions for the new Redbrick website design<br />
* [[Redbrick Hardware]]: A list of Redbrick Hardware and their Specs<br />
<br />
==Events &amp; History==<br />
<br />
* [[A Brief History]]: A loose overview history<br />
* [[Bertie Ahern Visit]]: When Bertie visited Redbrick. <br />
* [[Best Society]]: Best DCU Society, Best National Society (2000/2001) <br />
* [[Justin's Article]]: Justin Moran (cain)'s article in An Tarbh<br />
* [[Redbrick Anniversary]]: To discuss and organise our 10-year anniversary! (event/book) <br />
* [[Redbrick Logo]]: The history of Redbrick logos! <br />
* [[SemNet]]: A once-off tech seminar day (2003). <br />
* [[Tech Week]]: A week long series of tech events at DCU. <br />
* [[Timeline]]: Redbrick Timeline. <br />
* [[WaveHunt]]: Wireless network tracking competition in Dublin.<br />
<br />
==Links==<br />
<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~shadow/recent.cgi A reloadable map of who is heying who on Redbrick, right now!]: Written by Phaxx and Shadow. <br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~shadow/ Login times for all Redbrick users]: Written by Shadow. <br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~thayl/mt_saga.html MovableType saga on Redbrick]: Thayl has a summary of the problems with using [http://www.movabletype.org/ Movabletype] on Redbrick.<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~magluby/pics/ Pictures of Redbrick users]: Mugshots of many Redbrick users. Powered by magluby. <br />
* [https://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~link/news/ Read the boards]: Link has thrown up some software to allow Redbrick users to read the boards from the web. Uses your slrn settings. <br />
* [http://www.audioscrobbler.com/group/redbrick Redbrick Audioscrobbler Group]: See other members' taste in music on audioscrobbler<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~wishkah/code.html Redbrick Code]: The Redbrick Code, by wishkah<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/about/admins/diskhog/ Redbrick Diskhogs]: Whos hogging all the disk space on Redbrick?<br />
* [http://planet.redbrick.dcu.ie Redbrick Planet]: A site that brings together numerous blog from Redbrick users. Check out the [[Planet Redbrick FAQ]] for more.<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~doc/reviews/ Reviews of books, movies and music by Redbrick users]: Powered by DoC<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~yosarian/mud/ Stuff on Redbrick Muds]: Yosarian has some useful FAQs, stats and other stuff on using MUD on Redbrick.<br />
* [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~thayl/headphones.html Redbrick Headphones FAQ]: Thayl collected responses from what Redbrick people think are decent headphones.<br />
<br />
==Special Pages==<br />
<br />
* [[Special:Specialpages|List of all Special Pages]]<br />
* [[Special:Popularpages|Popular Pages]]<br />
* [[Special:Statistics|Site Statistics]]: They do seem to be a little 'broken' though.<br />
* [[Special:Newimages|Uploads in thumbnail format]]<br />
* [[Special:Allpages|All pages on this wiki]]<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Help Section Contents]]</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=4538Main Page2006-09-26T13:16:13Z<p>Gavin: /* Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Redbrick Feeds}}<br />
{{Blur}}<br />
This is the Redbrick Wiki Web, for all things Redbrick. The idea behind this site is that you as a redbrick member maintain it. If there is something you'd like to see here, you add it. If you find something wrong, you correct it. It couldn't be easier, you can log in with your Redbrick username and password to edit and add pages. <br />
<br />
==Help==<br />
<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Help Section Contents]]<br />
* [[Help:What is a wiki|What is a Wiki?]]<br />
* [http://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/mw/Help:Contents#I_can.27t_login.21 Having problems logging in?]<br />
<br />
==How-Tos==<br />
* [[Web chat]] : Talk on redbrick via your web browser.<br />
* [[Unsubscribing]] : You're not on redbrick, but still get those pesky emails!<br />
* [[Bike Locks]]: You've bought a bike - now to secure it. How to pick a good lock. <br />
* [[DCU Proxy And Scripts]]: Getting Python scripts to use the right proxy. <br />
* [[End of the MovableType Saga]]: A solution to the MovableType saga on Redbrick <br />
* [[Espresso Machines]]: A guide for the coffee-addicts who have far too much money. <br />
* [[Installing Gallery On Redbrick]]: How to install Gallery on Redbrick. <br />
* [[Installing Wordpress on Redbrick]]: How to install Wordpress on Redbrick. <br />
* [[Instant Messaging]]: A guide to enabling instant messaging (i.e. not hey but other messaging services such as MSN) on Redbrick <br />
* [[MovableType To Wordpress]]: An article on how to migrate from a MovableType blog to a Wordpress blog on your Redbrick website. <br />
* [[PC Disposal]]: How/where to dispose &amp; recycle your old PC junk!<br />
* [[PubCookie on Redbrick]]: How to make a webservice on Redbrick only avaliable to other Redbrick users. <br />
* [[Redbrick Radio Podcasts]]: How to make a podcast for Redbrick Radio. <br />
* [[System Administration Guide]]: General guide &amp; advice. <br />
* [[Why Cant I Get Emails From Hotmail On Redbrick]] <br />
* [[Your Webpage Stats]]: How to get and analysis statistics on your redbrick webpage. <br />
* [[Contracting]]: The basics of working as a Contractor.<br />
* [[Mass Renaming Files]]: How to rename a bunch of files all in one go<br />
* [[How-To:Port Forwarding| Port Forwarding]]: Tunnelling traffic through [[RedBrick]]<br />
* [[K750i Upgrade]]: Flash upgrading your K750i to a w800i. Warning ! Voids Warranty<br />
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* [[Special:Allpages|All pages on this wiki]]<br />
* [[Help:Contents|Help Section Contents]]</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Cycling&diff=4545Talk:Cycling2006-09-26T13:14:22Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Perhaps the article needs to be renamed since the is alot more information here than just about bike locks. Discussion page, so discuss.<br />
<br />
: Grand yeah, didn't know how to do it, as mentioned on the newsgroups - Gav<br />
<br />
:: oh. Got it.- Gav<br />
<br />
::: It might be working adding a section to [[Help:Contents]] about how you did it. --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 14:02, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
:::: Done --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 14:14, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Cycling&diff=4536Talk:Cycling2006-09-26T13:14:07Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Perhaps the article needs to be renamed since the is alot more information here than just about bike locks. Discussion page, so discuss.<br />
<br />
: Grand yeah, didn't know how to do it, as mentioned on the newsgroups - Gav<br />
<br />
:: oh. Got it.- Gav<br />
<br />
::: It might be working adding a section to [[Help:Contents]] about how you did it. --[[User:Cammy|The Dead One]] 14:02, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)<br />
<br />
::: Done --[[User:Gavin|Gavin]] 14:14, 26 Sep 2006 (IST)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Help:Editing&diff=4564Help:Editing2006-09-26T13:12:50Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>So you want some help on writing and editing articles on this wiki yea?<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add new sections to this article or add stubs for possible sections.<br />
<br />
==General Guidelines==<br />
<br />
[[Help:Editing#Using Headings|Use Headings when you can]] and format [[Help:Editing#Mentioning other Redbrick Users|usernames correctly]].<br />
<br />
''TBD''<br />
<br />
==Using Headings==<br />
<br />
If your going to break down your article into sections or your article is just a bunch of different lists then you need to use headings. <br />
<br />
First, you dont' need to place the article title in a heading. It's already at the top of the page. If your unhappy with the title, rename the article.<br />
<br />
Headings are done by surrounding the title of the heading with '='. The more of them, the deeper the heading. To elaborate, your basic heading should be in this format:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>==A Main Heading==</nowiki><br />
<br />
Now if you want a sub heading underneath that you would use:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>===A Sub Heading===</nowiki><br />
<br />
Use headings when ever you can because MediaWiki will generate a nice table of contents to browse your article. Headings also provide a way to shortcut to a particular section in your article.<br />
<br />
==Lists==<br />
<br />
Creating a list is easy. Place a '*' at the very beginning of a line i.e. no spaces before the asterix. Example:<br />
<br />
* List1<br />
* List2<br />
* List3<br />
<br />
The above list is generated by using this wiki code:<br />
<br />
* List1<br />
* List2<br />
* List3<br />
<br />
==Mentioning other Redbrick Users==<br />
<br />
When you mention another redbrick user you should link to their home topic. For example, if you wanted to mention the user cammy, you should write it like this:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>[[User:Cammy|cammy]]</nowiki><br />
<br />
This will generate a link/text like this: [[User:Cammy|cammy]]. Only Redbrick users can sign in to this wiki so it should be safe to do this.<br />
<br />
==Displaying raw text==<br />
<br />
If you want to put a snippet of code or add text without it being automatically formatted by the wiki you can do this easily by putting a single space at the beginning of each line.<br />
<br />
This is some raw text.<br />
<br />
You can also use MediaWiki syntax to disable formatting:<br />
<br />
<nowiki><nowiki>Do not format this text Mr. Wiki</nowiki></nowiki><br />
<br />
==Linking==<br />
<br />
Linking to other articles is very easy. Just place two square brackets around the name of the article:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>[[Wookie]]</nowiki><br />
<br />
You can get a little fancy and use different text. For example if you want the link to say "an article about wookies" instead of Wookie, you would use this syntax:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>[[Wookie|an article about wookies]]</nowiki><br />
<br />
If you want to link to another website you can simply use the full URI (including the http). For example: http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie. But like an article link, you can use different text. The only difference is that you use only one set of square brackets and you use a space instead of a pipe ('|'). Example:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>[http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie The coolest networking society ever]</nowiki><br />
<br />
This would give: [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie The coolest networking society ever]<br />
<br />
==Renaming articles==<br />
For the thickos amongst us (me, Gavin) if you want to rename an article click on the move link at the top when logged in. Enter the new name, eh Voila !</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Help&diff=5628Help2006-09-26T13:12:17Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>If your having a problem or have a general question, you can place a question here. Hopefully someone will come along and answer it for you!<br />
<br />
You have two options, simple questions should be added as new sections below. Possible long answers (or answers that can be referenced by a single url) should be created as new articles so you can create a link to it in the following list.<br />
<br />
==List of Help Articles==<br />
<br />
* [[Help:Creating articles]]<br />
* [[Help:Editing]]<br />
* [[Help:What is a wiki]]?<br />
<br />
==How do I sign in?==<br />
<br />
Just click on the [[Special:Userlogin|sign in]] link at the top right. This will redirect you to the Redbrick [[PubCookie on Redbrick|PubCookie]] page where you can log in with your normal [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie Redbrick] username and password. <br />
<br />
Once you are signed in you can edit any topic or create new ones.<br />
<br />
==I'm too lazy to figure it out myself!==<br />
<br />
Are you looking for something specific that isn't here? Well, why not add a suggested name for the topic to the [[Main_Page]] (or if it's about this wiki, to this very article) and someone else might actually create the topic (and your answer) for you! <br />
<br />
You can also post on the Rebdrick Newsgroups about it and if you get an answer, write the first draft of the article (see [[Help:Creating articles]])!<br />
<br />
==Who do I contact if I find something wrong?==<br />
<br />
Arg! I've found something is wrong, but I don't know what it should be. Don't bother emailing the "author". The last person to modify it may only have been correcting spelling and grammar mistakes. You can just add a comment to the 'Discussion' article associated with the offending page saying what is wrong and hopefully some other redbrick user will correct it. (Or you can just post to the redbrick newsgroups about it).<br />
<br />
==I can't login!==<br />
<br />
There is an existing problem with usernames with underscores in them. This is currently being investigated.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Help&diff=5355Help2006-09-26T13:11:40Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>If your having a problem or have a general question, you can place a question here. Hopefully someone will come along and answer it for you!<br />
<br />
You have two options, simple questions should be added as new sections below. Possible long answers (or answers that can be referenced by a single url) should be created as new articles so you can create a link to it in the following list.<br />
<br />
==List of Help Articles==<br />
<br />
* [[Help:Creating articles]]<br />
* [[Help:Editing]]<br />
* [[Help:What is a wiki]]?<br />
<br />
==How do I sign in?==<br />
<br />
Just click on the [[Special:Userlogin|sign in]] link at the top right. This will redirect you to the Redbrick [[PubCookie on Redbrick|PubCookie]] page where you can log in with your normal [http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie Redbrick] username and password. <br />
<br />
Once you are signed in you can edit any topic or create new ones.<br />
<br />
==I'm too lazy to figure it out myself!==<br />
<br />
Are you looking for something specific that isn't here? Well, why not add a suggested name for the topic to the [[Main_Page]] (or if it's about this wiki, to this very article) and someone else might actually create the topic (and your answer) for you! <br />
<br />
You can also post on the Rebdrick Newsgroups about it and if you get an answer, write the first draft of the article (see [[Help:Creating articles]])!<br />
<br />
==Who do I contact if I find something wrong?==<br />
<br />
Arg! I've found something is wrong, but I don't know what it should be. Don't bother emailing the "author". The last person to modify it may only have been correcting spelling and grammar mistakes. You can just add a comment to the 'Discussion' article associated with the offending page saying what is wrong and hopefully some other redbrick user will correct it. (Or you can just post to the redbrick newsgroups about it).<br />
<br />
==I can't login!==<br />
<br />
There is an existing problem with usernames with underscores in them. This is currently being investigated.<br />
<br />
==Renaming articles==<br />
For the thickos amongst us (me, Gavin) if you want to rename an article click on the move link at the top when logged in. Enter the new name eh Voila !</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4543Cycling2006-09-26T13:07:25Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>All content added by Gav is wrong.<br />
<br />
==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
Another good link is http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/<br />
Its very handy for route planning and figuring out your distances in advance.<br />
<br />
===Dundrum to DCU===<br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.<br />
<br />
http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=458957<br />
<br />
<br />
===City Center to BlackRock/Dun Laoghaire===<br />
<br />
Head out through Pearse St. & Grand Canal Dock, Over the canal and follow road round to the right. Take the left before "the big red pub" onto Pembroke st. out onto the beach road and straight along the strand road to merrion gates (Road crosses the dart line). From Merrion gates, theres a cycle lane until booterstown station, and then enter the park on the left... theres about a mile and a half of cycle lanes in the park away from the traffic. Exit the park in the SE corner and take the back path behind Blackrock station and then follow the road up into the town center. From there its a pretty much straight run down the coast road (by Seapoint, Salthill & Monkstown) to Dun Laoghaire.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Bicycles&diff=8083Talk:Bicycles2006-09-26T12:39:18Z<p>Gavin: Talk:Bicycles moved to Talk:Cycling</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Talk:Cycling]]<br />
</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Bicycles&diff=5474Bicycles2006-09-26T12:39:18Z<p>Gavin: Bicycles moved to Cycling</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Cycling]]<br />
</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4528Cycling2006-09-26T12:35:58Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Routes==<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
A Google map link of this is at http://tinyurl.com/z5sn5<br />
<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4526Cycling2006-09-26T12:35:29Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Routes===<br />
Getting to and from DCU from various locations can be easier and safer by going via certain routes. A map showing carious routes and times around Dublin in general is available at http://273k.net/cycling/googlemaps_times.html created by and copyright of Robert Fitzsimons. <br />
<br />
For getting from Dundrum to DCU my route is<br />
<br />
Dundrum -> Clonskeagh -> Ranelagh -> Canal -> Camden St -> Georges St -> Dame St -> Westmoreland St -> O Connell St -> Parnell St -> Nt Gt Neorges St -> MountJoy Square -> Belvedere Rd -> Dorset St -> Drumcondra -> Collins Avenue -> DCU<br />
A Google map link of this is at http://tinyurl.com/z5sn5<br />
<br />
From Dundrum to Dame St and from Drumcondra to DCU there are reasonable cycle lanes.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4525Cycling2006-09-26T12:20:48Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
===Bells===<br />
Bells are useful to have and in fact are a legal requirement. They can be slightly dangerous though. You shouldn't rely on a person getting out of the way when you ring your bell, they tend to ignore em. Always be ready to brake when going through an area with lots of pedestrians, don't worry so much about making sure they know they have inspired your ire by ringing your bell furiously.<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do. There are a number of books about cycling through urban locations, a google will find em. <br />
<br />
===Road Positioning===<br />
When cycling through town, or for that fact anywhere, there are occasions when it is safest to move into the center of the lane. This is particularly the case when there is not enough room for a car to safely overtake you. By cycling in the middle of the lane, the car will not attempt it. If you are over the in kerb they might.<br />
<br />
Similarly if cycling along a line of parked cars, do not stay in close, give them the mandatory door length space between you and them.<br />
<br />
If approaching a left turn, it might be best to enter into the main lane of traffic. This way cars turning left will not squash you as they turn. Indicate of course that you are moving into the main lane of traffic. I find that drivers invariably allow you in, if you indicate, as they are nervous of making you go spat. Also, moving into the main lane makes it easier for oncoming cars turning to their right to see you and also for cars emerging from the left turn ahead to see you. (this is also why a front light at night is important, so as oncoming turning cars can see you)<br />
<br />
===Cycle Lanes===<br />
It is mandatory to use cycle lanes when they are available. That is, a Garda can bust you for using the road, when a cyclelane is present, even if it's safer to use the road. However, the cycle lanes must be correctly defined and marked. There are a number of laws relating to the use of cycle lanes and cycling on the road in general. Theses are nicely presented at <br />
http://www.geocities.com/cyclopath2001/legal.htm<br />
<br />
===Braking===<br />
As mentioned above disc brakes offer superior performance to V-Brakes, especially in wet weather. When braking, the various books and sites I've read advise using your front brakes first, not your back brakes. Front brakes offer much greater stopping force. To avoid going head over heels, don't jam on the brakes as hard as you can. If travelling particularly fast, shove your arse up and over the back of the seat, moving your weight over the back of the bike, this will prevent you flying forward.<br />
<br />
Be particularly careful in wet weather, skidding on your front brakes is remarkably scary. <br />
<br />
Check your brake pads regularly enough, if you head a scraping sound from em when you brake, make sure you change them quickly. You might have worn the pad away and the metal underneath is shredding your wheel rim to pieces. <br />
<br />
===Traffic Lights===<br />
Various Gurus differ on traffic lights. At a dangerous junction, where it is difficult for a cyclist to get in the correct lane, it can sometimes be safer to move out while the light is red so as to get ahead of the waiting cars.<br />
<br />
In general I obey all junction traffic lights, but tend to go through pedestrian lights. This is illegal of course, you are required to obey all lights.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Cycling&diff=4529Talk:Cycling2006-09-25T17:41:41Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Perhaps the article needs to be renamed since the is alot more information here than just about bike locks. Discussion page, so discuss.<br />
<br />
Grand yeah, didn't know how to do it, as mentioned on the newsgroups - Gav<br />
<br />
oh. Got it.- Gav</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Bike_Locks&diff=8081Talk:Bike Locks2006-09-25T17:41:07Z<p>Gavin: Talk:Bike Locks moved to Talk:Bicycles</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Talk:Bicycles]]<br />
</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Bike_Locks&diff=8080Bike Locks2006-09-25T17:41:07Z<p>Gavin: Bike Locks moved to Bicycles</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[Bicycles]]<br />
</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Talk:Cycling&diff=4523Talk:Cycling2006-09-25T17:40:39Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Perhaps the article needs to be renamed since the is alot more information here than just about bike locks. Discussion page, so discuss.<br />
<br />
Grand yeah, didn't know how to do it, as mentioned on the newsgroups - Gav</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Why_Did_You_Choose_Your_Username&diff=4548Why Did You Choose Your Username2006-09-25T17:28:24Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>Feel free to add an an entry about your username below!<br />
<br />
<!-- Please follow the same format when adding your username in alphabetical order --><br />
<br />
==[[User:art_wolf|art_wolf]]==<br />
<br />
Cool picture I have hanging up. Have had it for ages and its by Art Wolfe.<br />
<br />
==[[User:atlas|atlas]]==<br />
<br />
I originally handed in my student card, and said "Use my first name, please". I got an email later giving me my username as 'James' ( my middle name ). When I asked them to change, I decided to go with something a little cooler. I had been up for hours before that playing Mechwarrior somethingorother, and the Atlas mech was my favourite. I also, occasionally, feel like I have the weight of the world on my shoulders.<br />
<br />
==[[User:bilco|bilco]]==<br />
<br />
Cause as a fresher I though it was the character's name from The Hobbit<br />
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==[[User:cain|cain]]==<br />
<br />
I always thought Cain got a raw deal. Firstborn son of Adam, built the first city on earth and he's remembered for allegedly killing his brother Abel though the evidence is, to put it mildly, unconvincing and God was clearly biased against him. When I joined Redbrick, Cain was gone so I got Caine, which was the spelling of the name in an RPG I played at the time. Dropped the 'e' in my second year.<br />
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==[[User:calyx|calyx]]==<br />
Misread the name of a song. In a perfect world, I would have been calx.<br />
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==[[User:cambo|cambo]]==<br />
<br />
An abbreviation of sorts on my surname (campbell)... original eh?<br />
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==[[User:cammy|cammy]]==<br />
<br />
I was using it as a web handle long before I joined Redbrick. It comes from the name of one of my first roleplaying characters that wasn't just a bunch of stats. The name for that roleplaying character though, came from the computer game Streetfighter 2.<br />
<br />
Well actually cammy was my second choice. I would have liked to use The_Dead_One but that exceeds the 8 character limit.<br />
<br />
==[[User:cooker3|cooker3]]==<br />
It is my username for the lab machines in the CA building, it's not to do with an obcession with cookers!<br />
<br />
==[[User:david|david]]==<br />
The year that I joined DCU Hasselhoff was given a star on the Hollywood walk of fame. With all the new challenges in my life at that time I found that he was someone I could look up to. I could admire his achievements. He was like an uncle to me. I grew up on Kinght Rider and am looking forward to the new movie coming out this year. And then when I got a little older and started noticing girls I got interested in Baywatch. I wanted to be the stud that he was on that show. Appropriately in 2000 when I joined redbrick he released one of his many hit albums in Germany - "The Magic Colleciton". So I chose david as my redbrick username because ... well actually its not that interesting really, its my name in real life.<br />
<br />
==[[User:doc|DoC]]==<br />
It's the initials of my real name. I've been called DoC in real life by friends, family, etc, for as long as I can remember.<br />
<br />
==[[User:drag0n|drag0n]]==<br />
Friends in college said that I needed a nickname, probably because they're too lazy to say my full name "Diarmuid" and I find "Diarm" quite creepy, so basically, "dragon" popped into their heads and it stuck! I used be called siphi (for no particular reason, it was a random name I was known by onli ne), then changed to drag0n (with a zero). The zero is because the user "dragon" is allready taken on rb. But everyone loved the new name so I added the zero. If you hey the other dragon, you generally get a confused hey in response, so I generally have heys disabled. anyways...<br />
<br />
==[[User:drusilla|drusilla]]==<br />
My nick was surprisingly enough, from the character on Buffy! Friends of mine in second year of school gave it to me when they noticed the similarities between myself and the insane vampire. Funnily, dru was my second nick on RedBrick, before that I was zerocool<br />
<br />
==[[User:elmer|elmer]]==<br />
My username came from my first ever email address(elmer@clubi.ie) which i chose based on the looney tunes character elmer fudd<br />
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==[[User:exzantia|exzantia]]==<br />
As many, many people have pointed out, my name seems like a random string of letters, and it kinda is... When I was signing up for a Yahoo mail account in '98 everything I tried was already taken. I was not having under-scores or numbers so I decided to come up with something that would always be available! I thus far have succeeded.<br />
<br />
==[[User:fatwa|fatwa]]==<br />
<br />
In first year, whilst learning to program, my friend Andrew wrote a program that printed out "That's a fatwa on you, mein freund".<br />
I thought it was funny and it must have stuck in my head for redbrick registering. Also, it's short for "fat wanker".<br />
<br />
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==[[User:fox_chic|fox_chic]]==<br />
<br />
Cause I'm an xphile and Mulder's first name is Fox. :)<br />
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==[[User:gizmo|gizmo]]==<br />
My nick came from a combination of thinking gizmo was a pretty cool name due to that little flurry critter in Gremlins and also cns putting me on the spot on Clubs And Socs day when I first joined so that I couldn't think of anything else. Strange, but true.<br />
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==[[User:gavin|gavin]]==<br />
I needed a username I wouldn't forget and seeing as Gavin was written on my underpants I decided to use that. Handy quinkadink that it is also my real name eh !<br />
<br />
==[[User:jesjes|jesjes]]==<br />
My name is Jessica. And people from home call me Jesi, and at some stage during sixth year I decided I much more liked Jess. So when I got THE INTERNETS, I just called myself jesjes. It stuck.<br />
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==[[User:keloe|keloe]]==<br />
<br />
I wrote down kehoe, my surname and an old nickname, on the slip. However, due to my incapability to write h's correctly, the admins read it as keloe.<br />
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==[[User:kpodesta|kpodesta]]==<br />
<br />
Because that's my real name. I thought Redbrick was some email yoke - all else fails, I was getting a decent email address.<br />
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==[[User:lithium|lithium]]==<br />
<br />
Coz I like the sound of it. And coz it goes crazy when you put it in water. And not because of the Nirvana song.<br />
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==[[User:macbain|macbain]]==<br />
He wanted the username 'mcbain' but Karlos (mcbain) got it before him. Being original, Sarv decided that macbain would do instead, so he could forever confuse new users between himself and Karl.<br />
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==[[User:marvin|marvin]]==<br />
There are three references here : Starvin Marvin from South Park, Marvin The Paranoid Android from Hitch Hikers Guide To The Galaxy and Marvin the Martian from the Warner Bros cartoon. I'll leave it to the reader to decide which one was the greatest influence (hint: it wasn't Starvin Marvin).<br />
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==[[User:montoya|montoya]]==<br />
<br />
The name is that of a character from the book "The Princess Bride" by William Goldman. The specific character is Inigo Montoya, a Spanish swordsman out for revenge against a 6-fingered man who killed Inigo's father.<br />
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==[[User:moridin|moridin]]==<br />
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The most evil and therefore cool character in a series of books that I was reading. Said series of books has since degenerated into a mush of crap writing. Boo.<br />
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==[[User:nit|niT]]==<br />
Originally my name was a combination of many words that described me, and was dreamt up whilst I was at college in Aylesbury. It all started when I got a demo copy of Diablo from my cousin in Singapore, and us lads built our first LAN at my mate Dave's house. We also played Carmegeddon, the Star Wars game and Quake 2 (of which my mate Dave had a 600mhz processor and TWO 3dfx cards linked up in parallell - he was our God). It was necessary for me to have a character name in Diablo so I chose Nitsuj Buaya Chen, the latter two meaning 'Crocadile man that snaps up ladies' (in Singapore slang) and monkey (as my star sign is golden monkey). I later joined a CS clan called Black Legion and people naturally shortened my name down to nit. At that time I also had a friend who was called 'kippy' in real life and online, so I started using nit in real life too. Later I joined a 'talker' called theManor which was a twin site to the LambdaMoo, there was a guy there who set it all up and went by the nick 'beN', he and girlfriend sadly died in a car accident and so manor spods paid tribute but capitalising the final letter of their nick, hence why I use niT.<br />
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==[[User:noelfitz|noelfitz]]==<br />
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8 letter truncation of my real name (boring but true.)<br />
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==[[User:p|p]]==<br />
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Back the old days of IOL/Indigo's IRC servers I used a variety of names, which all began with the letter p. Eventually, I ditched the different nicknames and used ^P^. Redbrick doesn't support weird characters though, so now it's just p. It also happens to be my middle initial.<br />
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==[[User:phaxx|phaxx]]==<br />
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Originally from the character Lord Fax in the book [http://www.google.com/search?q=dragonriders+of+pern Dragonriders Of Pern] by Anne McCaffrey. I used Lord_Fax in [http://research.microsoft.com/vwg/projectsheets/comicchat.htm MS Comic Chat] for a while. I saw somebody using a 'ph' instead of an 'f', and thought, in that usual 13-year-old way, OMGZ COOL, and promptly became LordPhaxx. <br />
I was LordPhaxx for a few years, until until around 16 when I met a bunch of other Irish nerds one afternoon. [[User:jerry|jerry]] was among them, and commented, "With a name like LordPhaxx, I expected you to be taller."<br />
<br />
So er, I dropped the pretentious 'Lord', and I've been 'phaxx' ever since.<br />
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See, nothing to do with fax machines! :)<br />
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==[[User:receive|receive]]==<br />
<br />
It was Michelle Smith (swallow) that dragged me along to sign up during first year, so I'd handed over my 4euro before I'd begun to think of a username, so I turned and said "Shit, Michelle, what will I pick?" and she suggested "receive" because it went so well with swallow. Stupidly I agreed, and it stuck (after we found a spell checker to check how to spell it that is), so i never changed it to anything better. Ironically, i never have been at the receiving end of swallows abilities.<br />
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==[[User:sandman|sandman]]==<br />
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I didn't. It was assigned on the basis that a) I was asleep and b) I read comics, didn't I? Ironically, I hadn't read much Sandman at the time.<br />
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==[[User:shimoda|shimoda]]==<br />
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It was a character in a book (Illusions by Richard Bach) I read during my formative years. Another rb user thought the description of the protagonist was suited to me so I nabbed the name.<br />
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==[[User:singer|singer]]==<br />
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I was a singer in a band. The guitarist mocked me for being the singer by calling me "singer". The nickname stuck. Non-Redbrick people address me as singer! My 2nd choice username was "scano". <br />
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==[[User:spock|spock]]==<br />
<br />
I chose spock because I had no idea that it would follow me around for at least the next 10 years.<br />
I didn't even know what Redbrick was when I was joining, and when I had a membership form thrust<br />
in my face by Hyper on Freshers day 1996, we had three preferences for username. I put down "spock" as my first preference. It wasn't taken, and that is how I didn't end up with the username "data", or "benji".<br />
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==[[User:svan|svan]]==<br />
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<u>S</u>arunas <u>Van</u>cevicius. First letter of name, then first 3 letters from surname.<br />
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==[[User:thedara|thedara]]==<br />
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My nick was given to me years before redbrick on irc (irc.phishy.net) I was the first person some americans had met called Dara and they<br />
found that interesting for some reason or other and hence I became thedara.<br />
On redbrick irc i'm known as Darz0re, It was a in-joke at the time when myself and dizer stuck z0re at the end of out names<br />
hence thez0rekorp.com and z0re.org<br />
<br />
==[[User:undone|undone]] ==<br />
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Couldn't think of anything on Clubs & Socs day, so for about 2 days my username was my actual name. Then I picked this, because of the Weezer song, but also because I think it's a nice word.<br />
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==[[User:werdz|werdz]]==<br />
<br />
A long time ago in a net cafe far, far away, a sexy asian friend by the name of quank said "Hey Andrew, stop using the name andrew in CS. Use werdna instead. It's andrew only backwards!" - That lasted about five minutes until people got bored trying to pronounce it ("OMG! WERDNA! QUIT TK'ING YOU NOOB!") and just started shouting werdz instead ("OMG! WERDZ! QUIT TK'ING YOU NOOB!"). And that's my life story up until this point.<br />
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==[[User:wilburt|wilburt]]==<br />
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Long story, guys i used to know named me Wilburtino, i didnt really like it cos they were muppets. However, it grew on me over time. Wanted Wilburtino or Will as my username but they wouldnt let me :( so wilburt was the only one left. Like all rb usernames i think, they are spur of the moment. (or admin mistakes)</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=Cycling&diff=4524Cycling2006-09-25T17:09:38Z<p>Gavin: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Buying a bike==<br />
<br />
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman<br />
<br />
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal<br />
Reply-To: cambo<br />
Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work.<br />
I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St.<br />
Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?<br />
<br />
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here. <br />
<br />
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/<br />
<br />
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike. <br />
<br />
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.<br />
<br />
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension. <br />
<br />
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)<br />
<br />
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels<br />
and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk<br />
getting in and causing problems.<br />
<br />
Basically, ask the sales guy:<br />
<br />
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"<br />
<br />
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few<br />
weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :)<br />
Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables)<br />
for free.<br />
<br />
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting<br />
destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Accessories==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Illumination===<br />
<br />
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me. <br />
<br />
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store<br />
> looking for hi-vis stuff.<br />
<br />
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons<br />
up in Santry.<br />
<br />
<br />
===In the rain===<br />
<br />
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers.<br />
Waterproof boots help too.<br />
<br />
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself<br />
with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded<br />
ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain.<br />
Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off<br />
on wet, icy roads.<br />
<br />
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle.<br />
Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet.<br />
And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)<br />
<br />
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet. <br />
<br />
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this. <br />
<br />
===Helmets===<br />
<br />
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin. <br />
<br />
===Keeping your bicycle===<br />
<br />
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped<br />
loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help<br />
<br />
From: Gavin <br />
Newsgroups: redbrick.help<br />
Subject: Re: Bike Locks<br />
Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC)<br />
<br />
On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote:<br />
> Hey,<br />
><br />
> Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike?<br />
><br />
> - Kevin<br />
<br />
I did a ''lot'' of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.<br />
<br />
The end points were :<br />
<br />
# Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.<br />
# Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this. <br />
# If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.<br />
# Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.<br />
# Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.<br />
<br />
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather [http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=29338 large Abus Granit lock and chain] <br />
for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to<br />
get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.<br />
<br />
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.<br />
<br />
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.<br />
<br />
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Good cycle practices==<br />
<br />
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do.</div>Gavinhttps://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/index.php?title=K750i_Upgrade&diff=5483K750i Upgrade2006-04-10T14:05:30Z<p>Gavin: /* Flashing */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Firmware==<br />
<br />
Find out your firmware version by pressing :<br />
<br />
right *<br />
left left *<br />
left *<br />
<br />
Go to the bottom and note the CDA number.<br />
<br />
==Flashing==<br />
<br />
Go to http://www.seuniverse.com/step1.php and follow the instructions<br />
there.<br />
Use the CDA string from your phone in the CDA dialog of the application.<br />
<br />
You should use Europe 2 as the region.<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
* When you turn it on, the choice between mobile phone and walkman was reversed for me, so choose walkman to get the mobile phone. <br />
* The PIN values don't show up as well so just type em in and press ok. Your keypad ain't broke. <br />
* Make sure your sim card is in when you press C and plug the cable in, it no work otherwise. <br />
* Don't worry when the application takes ages leaving the test stage, the phone has not been killed.<br />
* Any names that you backup onto sim must be less than 14 characters or they won't be recombined properly when you copy em back to phone.<br />
* Various GPRS settings are available at http://www.taniwha.org.uk/gprs.html <br />
<br />
Apart from that, upgrade is seamless. No hassle, walkman feature is<br />
tres nice. <br />
<br />
<br />
==Conclusion==<br />
<br />
On O2, on the contract I chose, the K750i is 70 euro and the w800i 229<br />
euro. A 1GB memory stick duo cost me 43 euro on ebay, a 3.5mm converter<br />
cost me 5 euro off ebay and the upgrade software was 10euro.<br />
So I get a w800i equivalent with extra 512mb memory for 128 smackaroos.<br />
Around 100 quid saving ! Don't buy a w800i ! You can even get a w800i<br />
fascia off ebay that will fit the k750i for around 20 euro, if you like<br />
the look that much.</div>Gavin