Cycling
Buying a bike
This is a mish mash of comments from the redbrick boards on bicycles. Contributors include Gavin, Gliceas, Sandman
Sender: cambo@murphy.internal Reply-To: cambo Thinking about getting a bike for cycling in and out of work. I've seen a few people here talking about cycleways.com on Parnell St. Are they the best place in town to get a bike ?
People tend to recommend cycleways on Parnell St when buying bicycles in town. They have a website, decent prices and are well located. Other places are cyclogical on the quays, Joe Dalys in Dundrum, and a bunch in Ranelagh, Rathmines, Georges St etc. Other might add more here.
Online shops are www.chainreactions.com and http://www.evanscycles.com/
When buying bicycles, there are three main types, road bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids. Roadbikes or 'Racers' are what ya see in the Tour de France. They go fast. You won't be reading this if you are looking to buy a roadbike.
Mountain bikes are what you had as a kid, typicaly heavy enough bikes, flat handle bars, reasonably upright posture when cycling them. Mountain bikes can come with front suspension (hard tail frame), front and rear suspension (full suspension) and no suspension.
Hybrid bikes are as you might think, a combination of the two above types. The posture of a hybrid is the same as a mountain bike, but the bikes tend to be lighter, thinner tyres and not have suspension. Or at least only have suspension on the saddle post. For cycling through town as the original question asked, I would recommend a hybrid bicycle with no suspension.
Suspension is somewhat debatable. I cycle a mountain bike with front suspension and thinish tyres. (1.5") I prefer to have a bit of suspension as the roads on my route can be cack and occasionally it's necessary to mount the kerb to go around traffic. However, suspension detracts from your speed, by absorbing some of the the downward force applied when pushing on the peddle. You might think, 'Well feck that, I won't be zooming around, the suspension will keep me comfortable' but after a few weeks of cycling, being able to go a bit faster can start to look quite appealing. A compromise is to ensure that the bicycle you can buy enables you to lock out the suspension. You still have the added weight of the heavy front forks, but the lack of suspension will result in a speed up. (I have aspirations of going mountain biking, which is why I stick with the mountain bike and don't get a hybrid)
Check as many bits as possible (pedals, pedal housing, brake/gear levels and so on) are rust-proof. Pedals should be sealed to prevent road gunk getting in and causing problems.
Basically, ask the sales guy:
"What's most likely to break first?" and "How much will it cost to fix?"
He'll tell you the brake / gear cables might need tuning after a few weeks on the road. Reply "yes, obviously, but apart from that ...?" :) Also, see will he throw in your first servcie (to tighten said cables) for free.
See is there a front chain guard to stop your trouser cuffs getting destroyed with oil :) Be prepared to tuck your trousers into your socks.
Accessories
Illumination
Buy a decent set of lights, rear and front. Get a reflective, Hi-Vis jacket. I cycle with strong front and back lights on my bicycle and weaker flashing lights that I hang on my person, front and back. Reason being that if I come off the bike at night onto the road, at least my wee flashing lights might prevent a car from squashing me.
> I actually found it cheaper going into a builders' supply store > looking for hi-vis stuff.
Definitely agree on this one. If you're around DCU, head into Heitons up in Santry.
In the rain
Get a light rain-jacket, and waterproof trousers. Waterproof boots help too.
You'll heat up in no time once you get going, so don't smother yourself with overcoats and whatnot. Wear a decent pair of gloves (I use padded ski gloves) as your hands tend to freeze when cycling in cold rain. Gloves are also handy in that they stop you getting cut when you skid off on wet, icy roads.
Basically, as long as you're wrapped up, cycling in the rain is no hassle. Just remember to allow extra stopping distance. Your brakes will be wet. And if you try to jam on, the whole bike will just shoot from under you :)
Disc brakes can be an advantage here if you are willing to fork (ho ho) out a bit of extra cash. They are superior to v-brakes in the wet.
I tend to not wear waterproof trousers as I end up sweating so much in em that I get just as wet as if I'd been rained on. Decent waterproof trousers may prevent this.
Helmets
There is substantial debate as to the merits of helmets for cycling. I won't get into it particularly much. Whilst they may not safe your life, they can make certain falls less painful. All the stores mentioned at the top will stock em. Any helmet they sell will adhere to the safety regulations, the most important thing is to buy one that is comfortable on your noggin.
Keeping your bicycle
When Gavin replied to Kevin's post about getting a good bike lock he has helped loads of us keep our bikes safe. Here's the origional post as posted on redbrick.help
From: Gavin Newsgroups: redbrick.help Subject: Re: Bike Locks Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 21:58:47 +0000 (UTC) On Tue, 3 May 2005 Kevin wrote: > Hey, > > Anyone recommendations for a good bike lock, for securing a mountain bike? > > - Kevin
I did a lot of reading about this a few months ago. Have a look at http://www.sheldonbrown.com. He has lots of cycling articles and a good one on bicycle locks.
The end points were :
- Its all about pissing the thief off and making them look for an easier target.
- Use two different locks, the thief will need to carry two seperate pieces of equipment to nick the bike. I use a chain/padlock & Ulock. More on this.
- If you have a detachable front wheel, take it off and lock it to the back wheel. Lock it with the ulock, passing it through the rear triange and onto something immovable. The less space available in the lock, less room for leverage on behalf of the thief. Taking the wheel with you doesn't increase your security.
- Take your detachable saddle with you, or replace the quick release bolt with an alan key one. Someone will just nick your saddle and chuck it in a bin, cause they are scummers.
- Other obvious things. Park it in a public place, not in some secret location no one will ever find it. A secret location means a thief can spend their time working away on the locks without worrying about passers by. Lock it to an immovable object.
That's most of what I can remember. The lock I settled on was a rather large Abus Granit lock and chain for 90 euro. I bought it in The Great Outdoors, funnily enough. They have a reasonable bicycle accessories section in there. Last time I went in, they were out of that exact lock though. You could also head into a locksmith and ask for a boron alloy chain and good padlock. Something like a 13mm boron chain requires a hydraulic bolt cutter to get through it. The best padlocks are the ones that only have room for one link to be fit through. No space for a crowbar to get in there then.
My second lock is a fairly cheap combination ULock. If you get a Ulock, make sure it doesn't have a circle key. Google for Bic pen attacks ! The best Ulocks are Kryptonite ones. As above, make sure you get a flat key one. I see the New Yorker one mentioned a lot.
If you get a large chain & padlock, leave em at your target location.. I.e I leave mine locked to the bike rack in DCU, it's too heavy to be carrying it on my bike everyday. I have the ulock for quick tops. Also, never leave the padlock resting on the ground, you are leaving it open to getting whacked with a hammer. Wrap the chain good and tight about the frame and the 'immovable object'.
That's around about it. In conclusion, get a Granit chain and a Ulock & don't ever lock your bicyle in the city center if you love it.
Good cycle practices
People might put in comments about cycling through town, what to do and what not to do.